MY VIDEO ASTRONOMY EQUIPMENT
MALLINCAM XTREME
Video Astronomy camera
One of the cameras that I use for my Video Astronomy is the Mallincam Xtreme.
It is an Analogue Video Camera with a Class '0' Scientific Grade Sony colour sensor. It is specifically designed by Rock Mallin for Astronomy use. Rock Mallin is the designer and manufacturer of Mallincam cameras and Video Astronomy systems in Canada.
By fitting the 1.25" nosepiece to the camera it easily inserts into a Telescope Focuser.
Mallincam Xtreme
MALLINCAM XTERMINATOR
Video Astronomy camera
The other camera that I use is the Mallincam Xterminator.
It also is an Analogue Video Camera with a Class '0' Scientific Grade Sony colour sensor but is far more sensitive than the Xtreme, and has superior cooling.
The Xterminator also has an Argon filled sealed CCD chamber.
Mallincam Xterminator
The rear panel of the Mallincam cameras allow for either S-Video cable or AV Composite (RCA) cable, and also houses the OSD Menu buttons, Computer Control cable connection socket, power socket and power indicator lights.
An AV T-piece can be fitted onto the AV Composite connector to allow two viewing Monitors or a combination of a Monitor and a Computer, or by using even more junctions you can connect many Monitors and a Computer. Great for Public Displays.
The Telescope I use the most is a Saxon (Skywatcher) ED80 f/7.5mm Semi-Apochromat Refractor.
Other Telescopes I use are an Orion ED100 Semi-Apochromat Refractor, Saxon 120mm f/5 Achromat, a Skywatcher 6 inch f/5 Achromat, and an f/4 Meade SN10 Schmidt-Newtonian Astrograph
The TELESCOPES I use with the MALLINCAM CAMERAS
Saxon (Skywatcher) ED80 Semi-Apochromat
Saxon (Skywatcher) 120mm f/5 Achromat
Orion (Skywatcher) ED80 Semi-Apochromat
Skywatcher 6 inch (150mm) f/5 Achromat with
Astro-Physics 2.7" Focuser
Here you can see my ED80 mounted on top of my Saxon 120mm f/5 Achromat
Meade SN10 f/4 10"
Schmidt-Newtonian Astrograph
Here you can see my ED80 mounted on top of my Skywatcher 6 inch (150mm) f/5 Achromat
The MOUNT
I usually use a Focal Reducer (which is also called a Telecompressor) for almost all my Video Astronomy as it gives me a wider Field of View which is needed for very large objects like Carina Nebula, Omega Centauri, NGC 253 (Silver Coin Galaxy) and many other large Deep Space Objects.
I made my own 0.58x Focal Reducers by attaching 32mm Binocular primary lenses onto 1.25" to 2" focuser adaptors.
I also have an Astro-Physics 0.7x Telecompressor and a Mallincam MFR-5 0.5x Focal Reducer.
The Mount I use is a Skywatcher EQ6 old black model with upgraded bearings. The same Mount is called an Orion 'Atlas' in parts of the Northern Hemisphere.
I still use the original non-upgradable v2.5a hand Controller, and no Autoguiding.
FOCAL REDUCERS
Astro-Physics 2.7 inch 0.7x
Telecompressor
Telecompressor fitted to 2.7"
Focuser on the 6" Achromat
My Home-made 0.58x
Focal Reducers
Mallincam MFR-5 Duel Cell Focal Reducer
with 5mm and 10mm spacers
FILTERS I USE
A very annoying effect when using CCD sensors is what Infrared light does to the image.
Infrared light is outside the red end of the light spectrum where we can't see it with our eyes, but CCD sensors see it, capture it, and it refuses to Focus with all the other colours, so objects look out of focus, especially bright stars.
The way to solve this problem is to fit an Astronomical IR filter which cuts off the IR light right at the edge where it starts to become visible to the CCD, but leaves the important H-alpha emission line.
Not all IR filters cut off at the same place in the Spectrum.
Another common problem is brought about when using Achromat Refractors.
They suffer what is called Chromatic Aberration. Achromat lenses will not allow different colours to focus at the same point on the CCD sensor (or your eye), so each object has a red blur on one side and blue/green blur on the other side.
To make matters worse, objects like bright stars and planets give off an ugly bright Violet halo or 'Fringing'.
To reduce the Violet Fringing a Minus Violet Filter sometimes works, but a yellow filter seems to reduce it more.
IR filters. Cheap ones are not as successful as good quality filters like Astronomiks, Hutech, and Baader.
Yellow #12 Filter and a 'Minus Violet' filter which assist in removing some Violet fringing around bright objects.
CONNECTING it all up
One thing to consider when using an IR filter. Most Galaxies contain a lot of Infrared light and using an IR filter may make Galaxies appear fainter than they actually are.
On nights when I want to concentrate on faint Galaxies and extremely distant faint Galaxy Clusters I prefer to remove the IR filter and catch as much Galactic light as possible.
But replace it again for general Nebulae, large bright Galaxies, Star Clusters and Lunar.
The simplicity of Video Astronomy.
The camera attached to a TV or Monitor with an AV Composite cable, and a 12 volt power source.
The simplicity of connecting to a Computer.
The camera attached to a computer by an Analogue to USB Video Grabber, and a 12 volt power source.
For my Video Astronomy I use the second option, connecting to a computer.
I also use the Computer to control the camera by connecting another cable which sends commands back to the camera.
This way I have total control from a distance so I can sit inside the house out of cold weather. To make the system fully remotely controlled I also run a cable for Mount Control and another for Focus control.
My ED80 with Mallincam camera attached, and all the wiring including focuser control and heater straps to keep dew off the optics.
My 6 inch Skywatcher showing Focuser control on the Astro-Physics 2.7 inch Focuser.
In this photo below you can see how I run my cables from the house to the Mount, Scope and camera.
If you use a Mains Power source like I do you must run it seperately from the other cables to prevent interference to the Video signal.
The Heater straps on my ED80 and Finderscope
The assortment of Telescopes I have to use
THE CONTROL ROOM (or the place to get out of the cold and away from Mosquitoes)
Here you can see how I lay out my Laptop Computers when I am broadcasting 'Live' on the internet.
The main laptop on the right has a second monitor connected to allow me to see all the programs running.
The smaller second laptop isn't necessary. I just use it for star maps and internet browsing to keep the main computer less cluttered.
On my main computer I run the Miloslick Mallincam Video capture and its camera control software, WebcamMax Video software, and the 'Night Skies Network' online broadcasting website.
When broadcasting, I use Miloslick software to capture and control the camera. I use WebcamMax to pick up the video image from Miloslick then broadcast that view 'Live' on the internet on the Night Skies Network website.
Night Skies Network doesn't recognise Miloslick as a camera, that is why I use WebcamMax to pick up the view, because Night Skies network can recognise it as a camera.
It sounds confusing but it's not once you have the two software programs and one website open and running.
ONLINE 'LIVE' BROADCASTING
I do my 'Live' Video Astronomy broadcasting on the Video Astronomy dedicated website 'NIGHT SKIES NETWORK'.
To see one of my 'Live' broadcasts, my channel is called 'Snake Valley, Australia'. (see the Links page for Night Skies Network)
An almost 360 degree panorama of my property. This is where I do my Video Astronomy broadcasts from.
The night sky from my small quiet country town of Snake Valley, Australia
OTHER ITEMS
I have another website totally devoted to all aspects of Video Astronomy for anyone wanting to know about this particular field of Astronomy, including a lengthy list of equipment, information on Forums and Social Groups for Video Astronomy, Resources, and videos of people's work.
I have attempted to make it as informative as possible for anyone new to Video. (see the Links page for 'Video Astronomy website')
